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Ahhh! The rumble of the tummy! It must be time to discuss food. Valencians eat five times a day Desayuno, Breakfast, early in the morning. Almuerzo, A mid Morning snack consisting of a filled baguette, a glass of wine or beer, coffee and often a brandy (often mixed as a carajillo). Comida, Lunch at around 2.30pm, 3 courses, bread, wine or beer folowed by more coffee or a carajillo. Merienda, Teatime, often a doughnut and milk or more coffee, or Horchata and Fartons (more on this later). and Cena, Dinner, eaten at around 2230 and consisting of much the same as lunch. A healthy mediterranean diet. Click away, and when you visit the establishments listed in our pages, let them know you read about them here! And if ever somewhere doesn't live up to our review let us know why. New Improved Restaurant Listings |
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Not listed on our pages? Click above to download our listings form in Word format, fill it in and mail back to us! ¿No apareces en nuestros listings? Haz click arriba para bajar nuestro formulario en formato Word, rellenalo, y mandanoslo por email! Te incluiremos GRATIS lo antes posible! |
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Dining in Valencia
Over the next few weeks and months we will be presenting reviews of some of our favourite and sometimes not so favourite restaurants here on these pages. These aren’t necessarily the best restaurants in Valencia, one or two of them aren’t even particularly nice, but each one has something special, something memorable; at least as far as we can remember. Each one was considered worthy of a place in this collection because it was something not completely different, but a little bit out of the ordinary. Either that or someone else was paying and so we didn’t really care that much one way or the other. When visiting a strange city it’s so easy to fall into the tourist traps and get ripped off by somebody who saw you coming. We don’t promise you won’t get ripped off in any of these places either, but at least you’ll leave with a sense of having experienced the real Valencia, even if it was in a Chinese restaurant with a Rumanian waitress. Feel free to drop us a line at eating@thisisvalencia.com and tell us whether you agree with the review, or to suggest a restaurant to us, or even send us your review. We will try and include it on the pages.
It was raining cats and dogs as I ran up the flooded streets of the Barrio del Carmen to meet a friend at the 'Taberna Española' La Salvaora. I have passed this restaurant countless times over the past year, always mentally making a note to try it out, but so far not being able to fit in a visit. I have heard and read great things about it, friends have told me to go, but this was to be a first visit for both of us. I walked in slightly early (very unusual for me) to find M already there and was met by Blanco, one of the owners, who showed me to where M was sitting. We chatted and then Blanco returned to tell us a little about the place. The walls are lined with pictures of Flamenco stars from the mid nineteenth century to present, many of the latter day ones feature Blanco, a Flamenco afficianado, with the stars. The idea of the place was Tapas and Flamenco, with the emphasis on good Spanish food. I had very few expectations, I knew that the food and ambience were reportedly good, but beyond that nothing. M and I were in for a rare treat. Blanco's business partner Jaime is Maitre D', A charming animated and talkative guy who was only too pleased to be asked by us to choose our dishes. He chose well. First came an amuse bouche of 'Morcilla de Burgos' in filo pastry. Followed by a sublime ham from Extramadura, beautifully presented on a square white platter and accompanied by Toast and Tomato. Then came a delicious 'Pulpo a fiera' (boiled and then griddled with pimiento and potato). That was followed by A Foie Mi-Cuit with apple marmalade. Then came a cream of Cigala soup! And it was delicious. For the main course (as if I really needed one) I opted for the Rabo de Buey cooked in Rioja wine, I have never seen a portion so big, M went for the Bacalao which was served looking almost like a terrine. We drank an excellent Enrique Mendoza Reserva Cabernet Syrah from Alicante. Jaime forced us to have a pudding - A chocolate sponge, chocolate Ice cream and a Bailey's mousse, so we had to eat it - and a glass of mistela to round off a near perfect meal. Everything was beautifully prepared and presented, the service was impeccable and the overall ambience of La Salvaora was a delight. The wine list is well priced and the wines all have helpful and well-written descriptions. La Salvaora is open Tuesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner. At lunch they offer an excellent value 10 euro menu with a choice of two starters and two mains with a dessert. Expect to pay around 30-40 euros per head for an a la carte meal with wine. M and I staggered off into the still pouring Valencian afternoon ready for siestas in our respective homes, well, after all that work tucking into great food, we felt we deserved it! Timothy BIrch La Salvaora Tuesday to Saturday Lunch and Dinner C/Catalans 19 (Just off C/Caballeros) Reservations 96 392 1484 Menu del dia 10 euros
LA LLANTIA DORADA Over the years I have often thought about him and whether he still has the same weekly menu, or whether the ready meals offered in the UK by the supermarket chains have led him off the straight and narrow. Restaurants can be like my old friend, the same small menu week after week and month after month. However good the food is at these establishments, you really don't want to have the same meal each time you return. La Llantia Dorada is a small and intimate restaurant just off the Plaza de la Virgen that subscribes to this theory, the menu here is eclectic to say the least and changes each week. La Goora and I ate there a few weeks ago and really enjoyed the food and the experience. The decor is relaxing, attractive and vaguely Middle Eastern, Moroccan lanterns and artifacts with veils of soft fabrics separating the dining areas. The menu, as I said is an eclectic fusion of flavours Mediterranean, Asian and Caribbean. We decided to listen to Manolo, who runs the restaurant on a daily basis and went for the Menú Degustación, excellent value at 25€ a head (including an aperitif and a bottle of house wine per couple Monday to Thursday) six interesting and tasty courses started with a delicious little soup and then a salad whose main ingredient was a wonderfully smoky Tandoori style chicken. The main courses include such delights as a Caribbean style fish lasagna with vegetables and avocado, and a chicken dish with star anise and basmati rice. But each week brings new surprises. We were just being served our next course when Marc, the owner, arrived and asked if he could join us. We said yes, of course, and so the evening took a new direction. Marc was extremely hungry and decided that we should have more than the allotted six dishes and also ordered more wine. The next dish to arrive was a tagine, and was quite delicious. We ate, we chatted, we drank and the next hour or so are a blur of good food and great conversation. I know that we had more very good food courses that both La Goora really enjoyed and we am sure we remember an excellent chocolate dessert! There was certainly more wine and then some fond farewells as we left with Marc for his other place, Café de las Horas, to join some friends of his for champagne cocktails. Las Horas, if you don't know it is just what you want from a bar, over the top decoration, subdued lighting and packed with a great crowd of people. We chatted on into the early hours, met old friends and made new ones and finally left, slightly the worse for wear in the pouring rain, sometime in the early hours. I highly recommend La Llantia Dorada for a relaxed and enjoyable evening of good interesting food, the wine list is small but the house wine is very drinkable, and in addition to the free bottle offer, there is also the offer Monday-Thursday of you paying 2.50€ for your first glass and they keep topping you up throughout the meal at no extra charge - Minimum order is one main course per person. Thursdays there is live music to accompany your meal. The lunchtime deal is an absolute bargain at 10€ a head and in the evening there is not only the 25€ menú but a lighter meal (one less dish) for 16€. From time to time there are themed dinners on offer - Jazz, Medieval, Renaissance, with live music and a menu inspired by the period and, as you would expect, ethnic evenings including Indian, Caribbean and Latin American. Reservations 96 391 2716 Lunch: Monday-Friday 14:00h-16:00h Dinner: Monday-Saturday 21:00h-23.30h
Bacco D.O.C I arrived, on a really cold night, with my friend Lolita. For once we were on time for our 10pm booking (neither of us are terribly punctual people) and found a long queue had already formed, though once we had caught the Maitre D's eye were soon seated. We were shown to a table quite close to the front door which unfortunately meant that we had people in the queue standing in front of our table and cold air from outside throughout most of the meal. We were then presented with the menu and invited to order pre-dinner drinks. The menu is interesting and mercifully short - I always worry when there are two many items on a menu, it's probably irrational but I like to think that they cook those few items well.. Lolita and I decided to share a couple of starters and chose Carpaccio and parmesan and an absolutely delicious Aubergine Parmigiano. L followed this with a Tagliatelli Funghi Porcini, served piping hot and quite delightful. I was intrigued by the beef slices cooked in Worcester Sauce and was not disappointed, the beef was tender and very tasty, I just wish there had been a few vegetables served with it. Neither of us are great pudding fans, but in the interests of a full review we asked our waiter for his advice. He chose their sampler plate for us. It was a masterpiece, cubes of chocolate cake decorated with spun sugar and a superb Zabaglioni served in a Martini glass. Bacco D.O.C. deserves its reputation, it was busy the entire evening when we were there. The service was a little slow, so don't go if you are in a hurry. Next time I would insist on a table away from the door and the queue, perhaps up in the intimate balcony looking over the other punters in complete privacy.
MESSANA So to the food, You will already know I like food to share, I always remember years ago going out with a friend and her boyfriend of the moment who was appalled at the very idea of even allowing anyone to taste what he was ordering, let alone sharing anything! We ordered two starters to share, the first was Coca de Llanda, a vegetable terrine on a pastry base with fresh pesto and anchovies, described as having a salad of rocket, but there was none on our plate, replaced without mention by baby spinach. It was, nevertheless, delicious. The other starter was Milhojas de Foie and Queso de Cabra with caramelized apples - a wonderful combination of flavours, and perfect spread on the crispbreads we were served in a basket. On to our main courses and Anita decided on the Merluza wrapped in cheese sitting in a rich mushroom sauce and I plumped for the Carrilada. My cheek of pork was excellent, tender and full of flavour, Anita's fish was in her words 'good but not great, a little more flavour would make it great'. It's funny to eat out with two female companions and to find that they both are as disinterested in puds as me. We let Messana choose and had a dark chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream and a hot chocolate sauce. The service is attentive and friendly, the atmosphere is warm and lively and the food is really very good. I can highly recommend it for lunch, an early evening drink or a night out with friends, especially as they have one of the most extensive and inexpensive cocktail lists in the City.
Diana Jean visits a great new Italian on Malvarrosa Around 15 Euros for lunch Thisisvalencia.com regularly attend openings and It seems its only the Italians in this city that know how to promote a new restaurant.
The other Saturday night saw the official opening of a lovely new Italian restaurant on Malvarossa, the vivacious Sheree and her partners put on an extravagant feast for its selected guests
The food was superb and flowed all evening, we were attended by charming staff who kept plying us with new flavours to sample. Huge rounds of tasty parmesan to dig out, decorated the food table, wonderful platters of every cold cut you could dream of, with the best rare cold beef I have tasted for a very long time. Delicious roasted vegetables, lovely salads and super fresh and hot piadinis kept appearing regularly from the kitchen. After the initial buffet was enjoyed we were served plates of risotto, this has never been a favourite of mine but always willing to try anything, this turned out to be quite superb, a delicate cheesy rice and a dish I will certainly be ordering in the future! By now absolutely bursting with food we were offered some lasagne, this was fabulous! Full of flavour and cooked to perfection. The bar was more then generous... Sheree is from New Zealand and first came to Valencia with the America's Cup. The uncertainty of the future of the AC and the fact that Sheree found that she really liked VLC decided her to stay here and with her team of partners open this restaurant. Sheree is a charming, full- of-fun lady, who if Saturday was anything to go by will front this restaurant fabulously, making everyone welcome and ensuring a great meal and fun atmosphere. Obviously with so many people and the tables removed for this event, one couldn´t quite see how the place will look on a normal day but it´s a good size seating 50 in and out, and a a nice room at the back for private dinners and parties. Simply decorated, and pictures imported from Italy, good copies of the famous colourful fun images from Botero. The front has a big terrace with seating and heaters, onto the pavement and overlooking the beautiful frontage of the hotel Las Arenas. Go try this excellent restaurant. Open daily lunch and dinner Eugenio Viñes 105, 46011 Valencia 96 372 77 88 www.hosteriaelvizio.com
Barbara O'Neill Visits this Valencian well-kept secret. Around 20 Euros for lunch A blend of restaurant and museum, it’s named for ‘El Famós’, aka Vicente Navarro, it can be found in an old farmhouse set in the Algirós region of ‘La Huerta’, the agricultural green belt that surrounds Valencia city. It was first opened to the public in the early 19th century by Juan Bautista Navarro Dols, to serve wine and food to labourers working in the surrounding fields, many of them living in the clay-walled, rush-roofed ‘barracas’ of which, sadly, few remain. The restaurant is situated opposite the 17thC Ermita de Vera, a haunt of artists, many of them famous, drawn to its beautiful light-filled chapel and peaceful atmosphere. Their sketches complete, it must have seemed a natural transition to wander into ‘Famós’ for a glass of wine and a tapita of squid or rabbit. The union of peasant and artist was a comfortable one and the restaurant became a place that offered not only good, traditional food but excellent local wines as well; as it does today. Noisy and fun, this restaurant is a delight. Still run by the Navarro family, who are both helpful and courteous, the paella, melloso and rabbit, still cooked over orange wood fires, are exceptional. The menu is typical Valencian and if you’re not sure what to order, help is at hand. But leave room for the puddings; all home-made, they are delicious. As you pass through the door there is a strong sense of the past, a feeling that La Casa Famós has changed little since its inception. The clientele are still a mix of workers and artists but don’t be surprised if you find yourself in the company of doctors, lawyers, journalists or even politicians. The atmosphere is friendly and informal. The white-washed walls are covered with the pictures and canvasses of Vicente, their subjects ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous to the interesting to the sinister, all somehow in keeping with the blue and yellow Valencian tiles. Although it appears to be a well-kept secret, El Famós is extremely popular and booking is a must. The only downside is very limited parking, so be warned. Ermita de Vera, 14 Valencia Tel: 963710 028 or 963556 384 (closed Sunday evening)
The next tWO reviews here are from the pen and mind of bon vivuer Bob Yareham
SEU-XEREA
Apart from the Spanish Inquisition, the last thing I was expecting when I slipped in here for a bit of self-pampering was a lad from Bethnal Green to be wandering between tables ensuring that everybody was happy; but the fact is, and was, that Stephen Anderson has been the owner of this classy joint for nigh on 11 years now, and his British descent is one of Valencia’s best kept secrets (apart from the thousands of people who know). The food itself could hardly be called British; not a chip or dumpling in sight, and it might be his interesting past (a Burmese mother and some summers spent in Italy) that have created Stephen’s original approach to food; or it might be the two years spent working and learning in the restaurant of top British chef, Alistair Little in London’s Soho, that has resulted in the success of this attractive, central restaurant, where you can eat quality, imaginative food without your bank manager throwing a tantrum. There’s a tasting menu for groups at 45€, which might put some pockets off, or turn them inside out, but the star attraction is the mid-day, mid-week set menu at 20€ (plus 7% VAT, drinks apart), which changes every week and which offers an interesting variety of sensations for the demanding palate. The week I was there we were offered an aperitif of crunchy crayfish in ‘ceps’ sauce (I had to look it up too, but it’s a kind of wild mushroom), followed by thinly sliced cod Carpaccio with ‘escalibada’, a Catalonia purée made of vegetables, and then Italian Polenta with mini squids. The menu stretched my linguistic ability, but each dish, with its immaculate cutlery and crockery was a joy to eat. The accompanying wine was excellent too, and I must confess I didn’t study the list as obsessively as I usually do, having spotted straight off a fruity Basque wine of the ‘Txakoli’ variety, which you don’t often see in many places outside of the Basque Country. For the main course we had three choices; salmon with black tagliatelle and sweet and sour sauce, pork sirloin stuffed with nuts and pumpkin sauce, or an octopus risotto. Finally the dessert was a cheese mousse with poppy seeds and cassis ice cream. The service was excellent and the waitresses, in their tight black uniforms, would have turned a younger, more foolish man’s head. The restaurant glows a pleasant reddish colour and is divided into three areas. It’s a good idea to book, especially at a weekend, and be prepared to share the dining room with sleazy politicians looking for unsuspecting taxpayers to foot the bill, as the Valencian Parliament is just around the corner. In fact, Stephen assured us that the Socialist candidate for Mayor of Valencia, Carmen Alborch, had been in the night before. God, why can’t I eat like that every day? Seu-Xerea is in C/ Conde de Almodóvar 4. Telephone 96 3924000
ENTREVINS
Entrevins is yet another French-owned restaurant that has been set up in Valencia in the past few years, and another one of many that are converging on Valencia’s Notting Hill: the Ruzafa district near the railway station. Bottles hit you as you walk in; not literally, but the restaurant also sells wines, and one of its two rooms is chock-a-block with an enormous variety of wines for sale. Jazz music also hits you, as well as some tasteful (apart from the one of a large eye that I personally found increasingly intrusive as the wine….sorry….meal wore on) modern art on the walls of this converted town house that conserves much of its original style. Fortunately the table mats don’t hit you, as they are black squares of slate, and are therefore useful for distracted teachers with pockets full of chalk. In the evenings there is a ‘market’ menu at 19€ with 3 starters, a soup and meat or fish dishes plus dessert, or a 29€ tasting menu with 9 dishes. At midday, when we were there, the menu cost 16€ and consisted of three starters from a list of 6. Each was excellently presented and we were able to choose such delights as a sardine salad with mango vinaigrette or a foie cascading mauve lettuce as only French chefs can cascade it. Another interesting novelty was that you could combine the meal with a wine tasting, opting for either 3, 4 or 5 different wines, which the chef/owner selected according to each dish, which was an excellent way to indulge the palate without having to make major decisions (apart from the number of glasses you wanted to try). The first on the list was an excellent white Bordeaux, trouncing the theory that French wines are the worst in Europe. A cold soup in a glass followed the starters, and was an interesting combination of tomato and cherry. For the main dish I had a stone grilled ox with celery purée, preferring that to the other option, which was a cod risotto. Guillaume, from near Toulouse, has certainly put a lot of effort and knowledge into his small restaurant, and there are many details, such as the excellent bread and the startling offer of 29 different herbal teas, or the chunky lumps of brown and white sugar offered with the coffee, that make this a fine place to pamper yourself, if you feel that pampering is in order. C/ Reina Doña Maria 3. Telephone: 96 3333523.
ZENIT HOTEL:
Normally when I perambulate around Valencia looking for original places to eat (which involves great personal sacrifice for the benefit of my readers) I don’t often consider hotel restaurants. I suppose it’s because I always feel a bit self-conscious about wandering into reception without luggage; a bit like Dustin Hoffman in ‘The Graduate’, although, sadly to say, without Mrs. Robinson). The Hotel Zenit is next to the railway station, and this day I was due to meet an English football team staying there, who were over here for a long weekend and so I thought I’d give it a try, especially as the menu outside looked attractive, offering 24 dishes for 14.90€ plus VAT, without drinks. Half of the dishes carried a supplement, but that still leaves 4 starters, 4 main course and 4 desserts to choose from at the original price, and the opportunity to eat in excellent, elegant surroundings and to get hotel treatment from very attentive waitresses. There was a lot of English being spoken in the nearby reception as guests came and went and the menu is also available in English if you ask for it. There is also a good wine list starting at 12 euros, although somewhat limited with only 11 choices. Mind you, as I rarely get past the fourth bottle when dining alone that is not necessarily as big a problem as getting home afterwards. The décor is very modern with all the furniture in dark brown and everything else in white apart from 2 long twisted polished tree trunks and a lonely platter containing two large silver spheres, which could lead to all kinds of speculation. Huge lampshades like kettle drums hang in the centre glaring quite strongly while the perimeter has a darker light for those engaged in scurrilous dealings of a business or romantic nature. A small biscuit covered in tuna roe and parsley sauce is brought as you contemplate the menu, from which I finally opted for a salad containing all known types of leaf and some splendidly tender sirloin with cherry tomatoes. For the second course I chose a marinated red tuna sirloin, cooked quite rare and accompanied by wild rice. You can also eat à la carte, and among the interesting options are carrot soup with coriander and dried tomatoes, suckling pig, ‘fideua’ (the noodle version of paella) with sirloin (somebody must have bought in bulk!) plus spring onion and wild mushrooms or squid stuffed with apricots, foie and spicy eels. They also do a variety of paellas for two people upwards. The toilets are carefully hidden through reception and downstairs behind a screen where the telephone is supposed to be according to the sign. Once inside, after hunting for the light switch, which is one of those that detect you and switch themselves on, thus making an excellent potential terrorist bomb, you can indulge in the curious sensation of resting your pure white tablet of soap on a bed of shiny black pebbles. I know it isn’t much, but then I don’t need much! Another detail I like is that they don’t take away the other superfluous settings of cutlery and crockery when you sit down, which always makes me feel a bit like a leper. The dessert was an orgy of self-indulgence consisting of melon flavoured ice cream with two types of brownie, walnuts and a thick chocolate sauce. Life needn’t always be continuous suffering. Hotel Zenit is in Calle Bailen 8. Telephone: 96 3529000
DARBAR
Walking into this Indian restaurant in Valencia’s Avenida del Puerto, just near the port is quite an experience. The décor is impressive to say the least but I’d need a degree in architecture to describe the crenulated arches and baroqueish, Moorish pillars that seem to leap off the walls at you from all directions; or maybe I’d had one too many pints of Guinness beforehand. In great British style, and ignoring the comments of French dickhead; sorry, ex-president Jacques Chirac that the only thing English restaurants have contributed to haute cuisine is mad cows, this was a truly typical English night out; too many pints of Guinness followed by an Indian meal. Heaven. Indian food has never really taken off in Valencia, unlike Chinese restaurants which are more numerous than suburban cats and just as tasty. Those that have survived in Valencia have had to do battle with Valencian culinary conservatism (the Chinese are only successful because you can still eat out with a large family for a reasonable price; if the family is extremely large you can even sit surreptitiously at their table and eat for free without them even noticing). Gold is the dominant colour in ‘Darbar’, an Indian word meaning ‘Assembly Hall’ or ‘Court’, an Indian village’s version of the Anglo Saxon communal hall where the tribe ate, slept and procreated together. We however opted for the 29 euro menu, ignoring the 11.50 and 19 euro versions. Most of the menu was in English and Spanish although some, curiously, was only in English. Our waiter Aamir Anwar spoke excellent English and treated us like kings, which is appropriate as the walls were covered with portraits of various Indian monarchs. The menu included a cocktail which was orange and contained approximately 40% of my hangover. The rim of the glass was coated with a mysterious red paste which Aamir helpfully informed us was an “Indian red paste”. The restaurant is owned by Rashid Ahmed who has run similar restaurants in Paris and whose family own restaurants in Beirut and Dubai. We had a seemingly endless stream of papadoums and nan breads to mop up some enticing sauces featuring cucumber, a hot lime that vacuumed the taste buds into cowering submission and one with banana and tamarind. This was followed by an interesting selection of grilled meats and fish, each with its own distinct spicy flavour. Next came various curry dishes which proved that there are more shades of brown than in all your philosophy Horatio Nelson! The sweets were excellent, my favourite being an iced pistachio cake. The brandy was served in a heated glass as is becoming and the mint tea was a welcome caress for a sandpapered palate. The free liquor at the end was downed with manly abandon. Darbar has 70 dishes to choose from including 6 for vegetarians. The chairs are spectacularly large, ornate and heavy and very difficult to fall off….unless you work at it. It is situated in Avenida del Puerto, 294, or was; telephone 96 3311583.
The newest addition to the Vicios Italianos family is this beautiful restaurant in Ruzafa. Probably the best looking of all 3 of them in Valencia, it has only been open for a few weeks and is already full every night. Stunning decor, stripped walls, over sized modern art, huge wooden bar and a garden where you can have dinner! The Vicios italianos have done it again and the team here at thisisvalencia.com are very proud of them. With the same kind of menu, but a little pricier, as Al Pomodoro (Calle del mar, 22 - 96 391 48 00) and La Pappardella (Calle Bordadores, 5 - 96 391 89 15), this restaurant has a classier and executive feel to it. Low lighting, open plan and all very white and brown this is the kind of place that will become a regular in your social life. See you there. Sorsi e Morsi is at Doctor Serrano, 11 ( Barrio Ruzafa), 46004. Lolita Devine. |
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